For the Dior Fall 2025 show, Maria Grazia Chiuri sought to delve into the rich tapestry of cultural sartorial expressions, focusing on the ways different societies shape and define their fashion traditions. Her exploration centered on understanding what influences the global evolution of garments and how these elements transcend geographical boundaries. One particular focus of Chiuri’s study was the kimono jacket, a garment she carefully examined in both two and three dimensions. This research also served as a continuation of the legacy of Christian Dior himself, who, for his autumn-winter 1957 collection, introduced the Diorpaletot and the Diorcoat.
These designs were created specifically to be worn over the kimono, respecting its delicate silhouette while providing an elegant overlay. In this spirit, Chiuri reimagined loose, enveloping coats and jackets that echo Dior’s original vision, but with a more contemporary sensibility. These pieces, some cinched with belts, exude an air of comfort and sophistication.
The garments in this collection are not only defined by their shape but also by the extraordinary fabrics that bring them to life. Rich, luxurious silks are paired with intricate details, such as the delicate sketch of a Japanese garden that accompanies many of the silhouettes. This fusion of textiles and design results in garments that are both precious and artistic, speaking to the intersection of tradition and modernity in fashion.
In this collection, movement plays a key role. The wide trousers and flowing skirts undulate gracefully with each step, as if the garments themselves are alive, responding to their wearer’s movements. This dynamic quality lends the collection a transformative, almost metamorphic energy, where the fabric becomes a second skin that adapts to the body and the environment. The colors in the collection are also notable, with black taking center stage in a way that remains deep and intense, a constant anchor throughout the collection. It is a black that speaks of timeless elegance and mystery, offering a dramatic contrast to the softer, more ethereal floral motifs that are woven into the fabrics. These floral designs, presented in a variety of forms, become a language of their own, a print that takes on its own narrative and significance, woven into the very fabric of the collection.
Gold also makes a striking appearance in the form of embroidered inlays, an element that adds a layer of opulence and desire to the garments. These golden details evoke the enchanting allure that often defines the world of haute couture—the longing for beauty, for craftsmanship, and for a creation that transcends mere clothing to become something magical. This collection, therefore, is not just a showcase of clothing, but a celebration of fashion’s potential to weave together beauty, history, and innovation.
Chiuri’s Fall 2025 collection also offers a unique dialogue between Eastern and Western textile traditions, drawing a distinct connection between the artistry of Japanese craftsmanship and the elegance of French haute couture. It is a fusion that goes beyond mere aesthetics; it is a conversation between cultures, time periods, and materials. Moreover, this collection connects the realms of fashion and architecture, where the structural elements of the garments echo the principles of design found in both disciplines. But at its core, this collection places the body—the human form—at the center of its narrative. It celebrates the way clothing interacts with the wearer’s movements, shape, and essence, turning the body itself into both the canvas and the artwork.
