Issey Miyake’s Spring Summer 2024 collection is a masterful exploration of fabric, form, and the interplay between structure and fluidity. The collection is inspired by the graceful movements of a flag fluttering in the wind, capturing the essence of lightness and dynamism.
One of the standout series in the collection is “TWINING,” a woven range that showcases a remarkable weaving technique. The fabrics are light yet firm, allowing them to hold intricate, crisp twists that create a voluminous, lightweight texture. This is achieved through minute gaps strategically placed in the warp, resulting in a captivating and airy aesthetic.
The “AMBIGUOUS” knit series further exemplifies Miyake’s virtuosic approach to materiality. Crafted from high-twist cotton yarn, the garments reveal the form of the body while respecting the inherent qualities of the fabric. The front panel is knitted with yarn twisted in the same direction, naturally forming a gentle drape of soft folds. In contrast, the ribbed back panel hugs the body, creating a dynamic interplay between the two elements.
Miyake’s fascination with the interplay between form and function is also evident in the “LIGHT LEAK” print series. Featuring blurred gradients in simple silhouettes, these garments are created by deliberately exposing the film of a camera. The resulting prints retain the particles of the original photographs, lending a unique and organic quality to the designs.
The “ENVELOPING” woven series showcases Miyake’s mastery of draping and wrapping. Crafted from a combination of Japanese washi paper and polyester, the subtle luster and supple texture of the material create a depth and smoothness that accentuates the shadows of the drapes. The single-piece construction wraps around the body, adapting to each wearer and resulting in an entirely original silhouette.
Continuing the exploration of movement and materiality, the “TWISTED” woven series features a uniquely textured fabric woven with natural fibers like Japanese washi paper and linen, as well as stretched fibers. This fabric is twisted and shaped as if naturally formed over the wearer’s body, resulting in a captivating and tactile experience.
The “SHAPED MEMBRANE” woven series takes the notion of volume and comfort to new heights, with exaggerated silhouettes crafted from a lightweight, soft, and stretch-infused fabric that feels almost like a second skin.
Culminating the collection is the “FIXED IN TIME” series, which captures the essence of motion through the use of pressed fabric. The bold silhouettes with voluminous folds and angled shapes around the shoulders are the result of three-dimensional twists being flattened, creating a striking and effortless aesthetic.
Complementing the collection, Issey Miyake has collaborated with New Balance to create the MT10O footwear. Inspired by the concept of barefoot mobility, the sneakers seamlessly integrate with the sensuous physicality of the designer’s creations, offering a harmonious and holistic experience.
Issey Miyake’s Summer 2024 collection is a testament to the brand’s unwavering commitment to innovation, materiality, and the exploration of the human form. Through a masterful blend of techniques and conceptual approaches, the collection captivates with its fluid, dynamic, and deeply tactile garments, inviting the wearer to experience the joy of movement and the beauty of the unexpected.
